gomosanseong & seokhyeonseong
(고모산성 & 석현성)
In Northern Gyeongsang Province, between Sangju and the first gate of Mungyeong Saejae, stands the impressive Gomosanseong. Built by Silla around 470 as a bulwark against further incursions by Goguryeo, Gomosanseong is situated high above the Yeong River, nicely positioned to block military advance through the narrow valley. Built in the typical manner of late Three Kingdoms Silla fortresses, Gomosanseong features incredibly high, thick walls built atop steep, rocky crags. To the south, a later addition was made to prevent movement over the low ridge between Gomosan and Ojeongsan mountains. Interestingly, that addition was constructed in 1596, a lull in conventional fighting during the Imjin War (1592-98).
Jinnamun, the main gate into the lower addition, called Seokhyeonseong. It’s a bit difficult to tell from this picture, but already the “lower” gate lies high above the valley floor.
A view from within Jinnamun, looking south toward the Tokkibiri, or Rabbit’s Precipice, an old, dangerous path that facilitated passage along the steep cliffs of Ojeongsan.
But nothing really prepared us for the view of the massive Gomosanseong perched above Seokhyeonseong. Pictures really don’t do it justice and the massiveness of late Silla fortress design is evident in the high south and west facing walls of Gomosanseong. The low—in some places just two meter—wall of Seokhyeonseong connects up above to Gomosanseong, greatly increasing the defensive capabilities of the ancient fortress, and allowing the garrison to block any attempt to bypass the bastion in the cleft between Gomosan and Ojeongsan.
It does get pretty steep heading up to Gomosanseong, and the high walls of that fortress loom larger and larger as you approach.
A view to the East along the southern wall. At some places this beast is easily 15 meters high!
Looking out the southern gate of Gomosanseong provides a nice view of Ojeongsan. As with many Three Kingdoms fortresses, there would have been no stone staircase leading into the stronghold. Ladders—which could be quickly withdrawn inside—were often used to gain access.
A view along the western wall of Gomosanseong.
Another shot from atop Gomosanseong’s high southern wall provides an impression both of how high it lies above the valley floor, but also the nature of the local terrain.
From Gomosanseong looking down upon the low walls of Seokhyeonseong.
While the southern and western walls have been reconstructed over the past 50 years or so, much of the rest of Gomosanseong lies in ruins as pictured here.
A newly cut construction path, however provides an indicator that further restoration work is planned, and we’ll definitely want to return once Gomosanseong is returned to its former glory.
Walking along the southern wall of Seokhyeonseong, toward the Tokkibiri.
Inside Jinnamun there is a curious addition to the fortress grounds as a grouping of inns—all but ubiquitous in earlier eras—have been faithfully restored.
A final look back at Jinnamun.