Gongsanseong (공산성)
Constructed sometime before the 5th Century A.D. when the annals of Baekje first include mention of a completed fortress, Gonsanseong—then called Ungjinseong—became the second capital of the Kingdom of Baekje in 475 after the original capital at Wiryeseong (Seoul) was taken by Goguryeo. In 554, Goguryeo struck toward Ungjin, attempting to take fortress as well, but that attempt failed owing in large part to the strength of this natural defensive position. Ungjin Castle would host the king and his bureaucracy until 538 when it would move again to the more defensible Sabi (modern Buyeo), further south along the Gum River.
It is worth noting that, consistent with fortifications of the period, Gongsanseong’s walls and ramparts were originally not clad in stone, but rather formed of rammed earth topped with wooden battlements. Stone was used sparingly at key locations like gates, but the walls wouldn’t receive their masonry glacis until much later when the Joseon kings used Gongsanseong for government business until the dynasty fell in 1897.
(click on the pictures to enlarge)
Gumseoru Gate has become the primary entrance for today’s visitors, with its scenic approach and dramatic, climbing walls on both wings. Unsurprisingly it is brilliantly lit at night as well making for a spectacular scene. When the castle was in use, however, the Western Gate was less prominent.
Gongsanjeong Pavilion not only provided a scenic overlook of the beautiful Gum River below, but also acted as a command post for the western portion of the fortress when under attack. This is a fairly typical feature of Korean fortifications.
The view of the Gum River from just below Gongsanjeong Pavilion.
This large bowl in the western half of Gongsanseong Fortress is where much of the Baekje Palace compound stood 1,800 years ago. Archaeological excavations have mapped out principal buildings and facilities, but you have to imagine all the grassy areas below were once covered in wood and tile buildings related to the king and his inner bureaucracy.
Sometimes its easy to forget the conveniences we take advantage of everyday…but this was a Joseon Era refrigerator, in use until late in the 19th Century! Ice was harvested in the winter from the Gum River below and buried in this underground chamber, apparently keeping silkworms—a key local industry—cool well into April.
Another incredible Joseon Era addition, Yeonji was a pond designed to provide a pleasurable area to rest, ideally at the Manharu Pavilion perched just above it. The pond would have been 9 meters deep when in use and the pavilion sat atop the northern wall, overlooking the Gum River as well.
Some of the wall sections—especially leading to the eastern end of the fortress—are QUITE steep! This turned out to be quite the little hike!
The northeastern corner of the fortress once again rises high above the Gum River.
A very interesting site within Gongsanseong. These stele memorialize the actions of three Ming Dynasty officials who contributed to the defense of Joseon Korea during the Imjin War 1592-98. The inscriptions made explicit mention of the Japanese invasion and the actions of Yi Gong, Imje, and Nambangwi in Korea’s defense. During the Japanese colonial period, these stele were defaced by Imperial troops, scratching out all mention of Japan.
The Imryugak Pavilion served a dual purposes as well. It was a royal banquet hall in peace time, and served as the eastern command post when under attack. Pictures don’t do it justice…this thing is HUGE!! Imryugak was apparently constructed in the year 500, on the order of King Dongseong. It was reconstructed—true to the original design—in 1993.
This picture, leading down to Yeongdongru Gate, gives a good idea of what rammed earth walls—absent their masonry outer layer—looked like. In the 5th Century A.D., the majority of Ungjinseong’s walls would have appeared like this. You will find similar walls in nearly all Korean Three Kingdom Era fortifications, including at Haengjusanseong just west of Seoul.
I felt the need to mention this. Water channels are cut everywhere within this fortress, carrying rain water from the high points of the fortress down into the royal ponds below. It’s quite an intricate system, and you find these channels everywhere inside the walls. They stick out in my mind as a key feature of Korean fortifications of the time and I remember seeing something similar at Kinojo in Japan…constructed in the 7th Century by castle builders from Baekje.
Jinnamru Gate is different than the others. Built, or perhaps just modified, in the Joseon Era, it seems more ceremonial than practical. The wooden structure laying directly across an opening in finely cut stone struck me as odd. Then, when you take a step back you notice the ornate approach leading up to the gate, and just as impressively sculpted areas just inside and understand that this gate was built to impress. Can’t say that I’ve ever seen anything quite like it in Korea!
Normal Korean gates—of any era—include a wooden superstructure over a stone base, but bare wood doesn’t usually span an opening like this. Generally, the roof of the portico is enclosed in stone as well and the wooden structure laid atop that. This was quite a unique feature.
The inside of Jinnamru Gate.
The final walk back down to Gumseoru Gate, with Gongsanjeong Pavilion above and beyond.