Namwon (남원)

Founded in 680 A.D. during the Unified Silla Era, Namwon stepped into the limelight of history in the same unfortunate manner as many small, regional towns the world over…it was attacked by a foreign invader. In 1597, Japanese forces assaulted the stone defensive walls, killing most of the Ming Chinese and Joseon Korean garrison, signaling the commencement of a new phase of the Imjin War.

Gwanghallu Pavilion. Don’t let the tiny picture fool you, this is a HUGE wooden, ceramic, and stone building!

Gwanghalluwon Garden (광한루원)

Originally laid out in 1419 during the reign of Joseon’s Great King Sejong. The main building—one of the two biggest pavilions I’ve seen in all of Korea—is called Gwanghallu Pavilion. The original was burned to the ground in 1597 during the Japanese assault on Namwon but was rebuilt in 1626. As at Gyeongju, these gardens are lit up beautifully at night, with entrance fees waived so more people can enjoy the site and generally calming vibe.

This arched, stone bridge was apparently added to the garden in 1582 by visiting Confucian scholar and renowned poet Jeong Cheol.

Everything about the gardens is calming and all the touches one would expect—including the obligatory quaint wooden bridges—can be found at Gwanghalluwon.

Smaller than Gwanghallu Pavilion, I think Wan-woljeong was my favorite structure in the entire garden. Just so photogenic!

The alleyway leading to one entrance to the garden was beautifully decorated. The stone wall to the right surrounds the Gwanghalluwon Garden.

As night fell, the decorations were even more beautiful…and we took WAY too many pictures of mundane scenes like this!

There is a folk tale associated with Gwanghalluwon, the Tale of Chunghyang, one of Korea’s more enduring and well-known love stories. Chunghyang was the daughter of a Gisaeng, or female entertainer, who fell in love with a young noble scholar, who returned her affection. Scenes of their story are portrayed with mannequins in one corner of the garden representing a noble estate.

There is even a shrine to Chunghyang, celebrated for her fidelity, located in the opposite end of the garden. Reminds me a little bit of the shrine honoring the Gisaeng Nongae in Jinju.

Sorry for the tilt (it’s me…not you!) but this was the only shot I had of the inside of Chunghyang’s shrine. The painting is, of course, a representation of Chunghyang herself. This was, apparently, what served as a selfie in 17th Century Joseon!

Bonus Pics: We stayed at Yechon Hanoak, literally right across the alley from Gwanhanruwon. HIGHLY recommended as the grounds were beautiful—totally in character—and the room was perfect. If you’re planning a trip to Namwon, this is the only place to stay!

Namwon Eupseong (남원읍성)

With such an incredible garden, a few of you might be surprised to find that this little section of wall was the real reason I’ve wanted to visit Namwon for so long. In September of 1597, Ukita Hideie led some 50,000 troops from the southern coast to the walled town of Namwon, opening the 2nd campaign of the Imjin War. Ming Chinese generals had left a garrison in Namwon to keep an eye on the Japanese still holed up in their coastal castles. The 3,000 man Chinese force, and up to 1,000 Joseon garrison troops put up a doomed resistance, and most were killed in the fighting.

This stretch of medieval wall, likely constructed during the early to mid-Joseon era, is all that’s left of a fortification that once encircled the entire town. Designed to keep out pirates—as at Nakan Eupseong—it was less of an obstacle for army of veteran troops which besieged it in 1597.

Note that only the outward face of the walls are stone, the inside—as at Hwaseong in Suwon—is generally rammed earth covered in turf.

While the current section of wall is relatively small, I was heartened to see the archaeological work being done on a stretch 3-4 times longer. Given that the trace of the wall has long been known, this looks like the first step to reconstructing the old ramparts.

Lots of on-going work at Namwon Eupseong!

Many historical sites—especially those involving battles—include these manga-like storyboards telling visitors what took place there.

Looking up at the wall of Namwon from inside. Note the archer platform completely below the level of the rampart as well as the stone stairs to facilitate access to the top.

Gyroryong Sanseong (교룡산성)

This was a fairly large castle with a unique entrance. Built by the Kingdom of Baekje to protect against incursion by Silla to the east, it was renovated several times to include at least once during the Joseon Era. This accounts for the VERY Joseon-esque arched entryway. Unfortunately, the trails beyond the gateway all lead up and down the mountain upon which it was constructed…and none actually followed the fortress walls which quickly disappear into dense foliage making them impossible to traverse.