Other Sites in Japan
Temples, Walls, and Archaeological Sites
(click on the pictures to enlarge and/or visit an associated gallery)
30) Kyoto
Pics and commentary from a perennial favorite of both Japanese and foreign-born tourists alike. Our most recent trip—and the source of these photos—was in early 2022, just before we departed Japan.
17) Yoshinogari
The most unique “castle” I’ve visited in Japan. Situated in Saga Prefecture on Kyushu, Yoshinogari is an archaeological site turned tourist attraction and provides incredible insight into early Japanese life, government, and concepts of defense and security. The site was occupied during the Yayoi Period (roughly 300 BC - 300 AD), long before stone construction was introduced from the continent. The site includes a fortified area devoted to security, a governmental inner sanctum, and surrounding village and farming structures. The similarity to fortified Korean villages from the period is striking!
Throughout my visit to Yoshinogari I couldn’t help but notice the similarity of construction, design, and even conceptualization of defense between these people and those on the Korean Peninsula during the same time period. Once again reminded me that these folks have far more in common than either will ever admit!
View from one of the high towers.
Essentially the political and religious center of the site, this large wooden building was where the ruler lived, conducted rites, and held court. Pictures don’t really do it justice…it’s a HUGE building, and quite impressive given the time period.
Monument marking the position of Ishida Mitsunari’s command post on the day of the battle.
31) Sekigahara battlefield
We stopped by Sekigahara on the way to Kyoto as in all our time in Japan we’d never visited the site of the most pivotal battle in the history of that nation. Glad we did!
The battle took place on October 21st, 1600, just two years after Toyotomi Hideyoshi passed away and Japan’s armies withdrew from their failed adventure on the Korean Peninsula. Ieyasu Tokugawa took advantage of the situation and at Sekigahara, secured for himself the title “Shogun”. His line would end up being Japan’s final shogunate, enduring until 1868 and setting the stage for the Meiji Restoration which followed.
Map of the Sekigahara Battlefield with a snapshot of opposing forces’ positions. Tokugawa’s forces are shown here in red while those of the Hideyoshi loyalists are in blue. The outcome of this massive battle hinged on the defection—along with his 15,000 troops—of Kobayakawa (depicted to the northeast on the map in pink) to the Tokugawa side. As Kobayakawa anchored the loyalists’ right flank, this was a devastating blow and the army fell apart under the onslaught.
The Sekigahara Battlefield museum lies at the center of the medieval battlefield. It includes a wide selection of campaign and battle maps and runs a series of very well-done cartoons that help explain what was a fairly chaotic and difficult to grasp battle.
The top floor of the museum includes a large map built into the floor, with key positions mapped out. The windows all around then allow the visitor to clearly correlate map locations with real ground in a way I found interesting. Since the entire valley has been built over—the battlefield has not been preserved for 400(+) years—this was very useful and provided a mental guide as we drove and tromped from site to site. Apologies for the extreme glare, but I couldn’t get rid of it no matter from which angle I took the picture…the downside to having a room surrounded by windows!
Actual positions are generally marked with flags visible from some distance. This was the loyalist command post where Ishida Mitsunari commanded the battle.
This was the hill on the loyalists’ right flank where Kobayakawa Hideaki and his men were stationed, essentially watching the battle unfold in the valley until such time as they charged down into the flank of their own side, throwing the loyalist army—and cause—into disarray.
This is the view of the battlefield from Ishida’s command post. From this low hill he’d have had a pretty good vantage point from which to issue orders and make adjustments. It would have also offered him a front-row seat to Kobayakawa’s treachery from the hill just to the right of this photo, and he likely watched in horror as his carefully laid plans were torn asunder.
A video scan of the battlefield—with some commentary—from the center of Ishida’s loyalist line. Please excuse the poor sound quality…it was REALLY windy!
29) Genko Borui (Mongol Wall)
This wall, constructed by Samurai of the Kamakura Shogunate in 1276, following Kublai Khan’s failed first invasion of Kyushu two years prior. This low wall—an amazing 20 kilometers long—played a huge part in the Shogunate’s successful defense against the second Mongol invasion in 1281. What remains today, poking up through the sand and overgrowth, is a mixture of original wall and reconstructed segments. A few photos from the segment I visited are included here though there are many more sites in the area that are accessible.
The path leading over buried remnants of the Genko Borui and emptying out at Hakata Bay. Couldn’t seem to find a name for this Torii Gate anywhere!
View looking West along the beach at Hakata Bay, where tens of thousands of Mongols and Korean auxiliaries came ashore in 1276 to wreak such havoc upon the nearby city of Hakata (now Fukuoka). The Genko Borui—and stiff resistance by the Samurai posted there—would prevent a repeat performance by Mongols and Chinese Auxiliaries in 1281.
This section shows a reconstructed segment of the Genko Borui. Note the slightly darker stones along the bottom contrasted with the lighter ones stacked above. The darker stones mark what remains of the original fortification.
Here it shows up better. The low-lying, dark stones disappearing out of frame to the right is all that remains of the original here, the rest has been carefully reconstructed.
At most points along the wall, this is all that pokes above the sand and overgrowth, but these stones were originally placed 740 years ago.
The original stones are a bit higher here, as is the reconstructed wall.
Where I visited the wall disappears into the light foliage just off the beach. Still, if you peer through the trees, that subtle ridge out there indicates where the sand has slowly swallowed what remains of the long wall.
These vertical markers indicate the existence of the wall underfoot. At most places it is now completely covered, nature having taken back that which the Samurai labored to clear and build.
32) Shitennoji Temple
Initially founded by none other than Prince Shotoku in 593 A.D., the original Tennoji Temple has been improved upon and grown into a fairly large compound not far from Osaka Castle. Close enough, in fact, to have stood mute witness to the final battle of Ieyasu Tokugawa’s drive to bring Japan under single rule, truly initiating Japan’s Tokugawa or Edo Period. The Battle of Tennoji took place on these grounds June 3rd, 1615, inaugurating 253 years of relative peace and stability on the Japanese archipelago, finally bringing to an end that nation’s Warring States Period.
You’ll almost always find a Torii gate at the entrance to a temple in Japan. This one nicely frames the temple beyond.
Another feature of Japanese temples is a station for ritual cleansing, always with water.
It’s quite an attractive site, even for someone who’s seen so many of the temples and shrines scattered across Japan. Of course—and don’t judge me—I came here while researching the Battle of Tennoji as the closing act of the Siege of Osaka Castle. The battle would have been visible to the denizens inhabiting or working within the Tennoji Temple precincts.
The main hall of the temple complex, I like how the shadows highlight the neatly raked gravel within the expansive courtyard. This represents what must be a colossal effort each morning with tourists like me forever stepping out onto the gravel to get better pictures.
The bells hung inside the covered walkway are, I believe, representative of donors to the temple. And yes…I had to step out onto the gravel to get this picture (sorry!).
The Kondo main hall (The Golden Pavilion) and beautiful five-story pagoda of Shitennoji.
You can see just beyond the outer wall many small shrines clustered around the central temple. This was a really large complex!
The pagoda is quite striking.
The Rokujido or Six O-clock Hall was constructed at the beginning of the Edo period, early 1600s. It is one of the oldest buildings still standing in the Shitennoji Temple complex.
So many shrines surrounding the main temple! All different shapes and sizes.
Interestingly, cats are carved into the wooden frames of nearly every doorway and gate at Shitennoji.