Pasaseong (파사성) & Yeoju (여주)
Pasaseong lies about 12 km north of the historic city of Yeoju in the eastern portion of Gyeonggi Province and might have the most beautiful views from the summit that I’ve seen in a Three Kingdoms Era fortress. Experts remain undecided as to exactly when it was constructed as both Baekje and Silla fortress-building traditions are evident in what remains. Much of the wall is in good shape, with other sections carefully restored. In fact, restoration work at Pasaseong continues today at the main gate. Most importantly, the 360-degree vista offered from the highest point in the fortress is breathtaking!
A fairly easy climb from a dedicated parking lot just off the main road, the first sight of Pasaseong is this restored wall section leading to ongoing restoration work at the main gate.
Heading through the gateway, the eye is immediately drawn left to the serpentine wall and then uphill to where it rides the highest point of the ridgeline.
The farther one walks up the outer wall, the more incredible the view of the Han River valley below becomes.
Crumbled wall sections alternate with those in better shape leading up the dramatic climb to the summit.
It’s difficult to pick out here, but this indentation is actually a staircase leading up onto walls characteristically absent crenellations.
The wall section leading up to the summit.
The view from up top.
The pictures simply don’t do the view justice…sorry!
The sharp corner just below the summit with interesting construction of the upper stone courses.
The back wall has been neatly restored, once more alternating with less intact sections.
An intact, if overgrown, gate…complete with modern barriers to vehicle entry!
The restoration work at the main gate with a collapsed, Three Kingdoms Era section of wall in the background.
Will come back someday and visit again—lots to see in the Yeoju area anyway—once the restoration work is complete.
Other Sites in Nearby Yeoju
Silleuksa Temple
Near the small but informative Yeoju Museum, on the banks of the Han River, lies the idyllic Silleuksa Temple. Founded in 580 AD by a Silla monk, the temple was burned and rebuilt many times over the course of the many conflicts that raged up and down the Korean Peninsula since its founding. It is reportedly the only riverside temple in South Korea and overseas the upkeep and management of Great King Sejong’s nearby tomb complex.
Yeoju is one of those interesting places where there is so much history lying around, to mark it all on a map would make the map unreadable. Thus, we stumbled upon this 3,000 year old dolmen, or burial marker, just walking between the museum and Silleuka Temple. Another 100 meters on we tripped over the memorial for Joseon Era General Won Ho who raised a successful resistance force against the Japanese during the Imjin War…neither of these showed up on our maps! Apparently Yeoju was also the birthplace of Joseon’s final Empress, Myeongseong. I got the distinct impression Yeoju contains a lot more hidden historical gems!
The enduring image of Silleuksa Temple is the stone pagoda and riverside pavillion, visible here in the distance primarily due to the lack of vegetation so early in the Spring.
The central buildings in Silleuksa Temple were gaily decorated upon our arrival and there were a LOT of visitors.
This marble pagoda was apparently a late addition to Silleuksa Temple…added at some point during the Joseon Era.
Buddhist guardians painted on one of the inner temple doors.
500 year-old juniper tree on the grounds.
Royal tombs
The royal tombs near Yeoju include the final resting places of two Joseon Era Kings and one Queen. Great King Sejeong (1397-1450), credited with the development of the Korean alphabet lays in one end of the complex. Great King Hyojong (1619-1659) and his wife, Queen Inseon (1618-1674) lay in the opposite end, amid a complex of carefully manicured lawns, trees, and ponds as well as neat stone walkways and multiple elaborate homes of royal tomb keepers. The location is a beautiful tribute to Joseon luminaries and well-visited even today.
Entering the final approach to Great King Sejeong’s tomb.
Great King Sejeong’s tomb.
One of several tomb-keepers’ homes within the complex.
Typical iconography has fresh water delivered to a large, stone-lined pond through the mouths of stone turtles.
On the opposite end of the complex lies the tombs of Great King Hyojong and his wife Queen Inseong.
Great King Hyojong’s tombs is farther uphill on the left and Queen Inseong’s on the lower hillock to the right.
Great King Hyojong’s Tomb
Open doors at one of the tomb-keepers’ homes.