Sangdangsanseong (상당산성)
It’s actually unknown when exactly Sangdangsanseong was originally constructed, but judging by its location and the one-sided stone walls backed up by earth, it’s likely this was an early Baekje fortress. Like most such castles in Korea, it was originally constructed of packed earth topped with wooden ramparts. Sangdangsanseong remained in use throughout the Joseon Era and received several upgrades and facelifts during that long period, including one during the Imjin War (1592-98). While nowhere near as photogenic as some, Sangdangsanseong has a few features that make it stand out. This fortress is very close to Cheongju City in Chungcheong Province and so has become a favorite picnic spot, it is 4.25 Km around making it a great hiking destination, and it offers beautiful views of both the city on one side and virtual wilderness on the other. Interestingly, this fortress contains three separate temples and five ponds, reflecting the fact that for at least part of the Imjin War, a contingent of warrior monks was assigned garrison duty there.
The main gate is standard fare, though with only one staircase leading up onto the parapet instead of the usual two.
Crenellations atop masonry walls in Korea are usually a dead give-away of Joseon Era (or later) improvements to the fortifications. Three Kingdoms fortress walls are usually clean along the top. Crenellations became important defensive accoutrements with the spread of gunpowder weapons across Northeast Asia.
The crenellations only seem to have been added to the most vulnerable sections of the fortress. Most of Sangdangsanseong’s walls are without.
In some places it seems that nature is threatening to win its 1,900 year war against the walls of Sangdangsanseong!
And just when I thought this would be a run-of-the-mill, Baekje-built, Joseon-upgraded fortress … we came across the most unique gate complex I’ve ever seen! It almost looks like it’s facing backward, and definitely reflects an earlier style of masonry gate surrounded by packed-earth walls.
There are no stairs leading up to this gate, but the rampart to either side becomes less steep on the inside, allowing easy reinforcement.
The concave design also forces an attacker to essentially run a gauntlet of narrowing walls prior to reaching the fortified doorway. Quite unique!
This fortress only has three true gates through the walls. Those are supplemented by several “secret” gates or ammun. As mentioned for other fortresses, these would have provided access along a minor trail and provided opportunity for clandestine supply or might act as a sally port if under siege. Interestingly, this one had the builder’s name carved into the stone inside.
The view of Cheonju from Sangdangsanseong. Much larger city than I’d imagined, you can actually see much if not all of it from atop the castle’s ancient walls.