Namdaemun, the “Great Southern Gate” of Hanseong still stands as a visually stunning centerpiece in modern Seoul. A fire set by a mentally imbalanced homeless man burned much of the ancient structure, but the government painstakingly restored the structure to its original form.

The walls of Seoul were carefully constructed in a manner suitable to the capital of the Kingdom of Joseon. Few sections stand in as pristine condition as these reconstructed portions near Naksan marked by somewhat stylized crenelations.

A view from atop and “inside” the wall section on Naksan.

More views of the wall on Naksan.

The streets of Seoul, along the walls, have little choice but to follow them as they meander down from the hills. Development at the bottom of Seoul’s hills means that the reconstructed wall segments disappear into the city as you walk down those hills. If memory serves, this segment would have eventually connected to Dongdaemun, the “Great Eastern Gate” of the city

Misty morning weather makes it difficult to follow, but if you look closely you can make out the old stone walls climbing the steep Inwang Mountain north of the ancient city. These sections are largely original, and are dotted by modern guard posts used by the Republic of Korean Army to protect the President’s residence down below. A North Korean assassination team infiltrated this area in January 1968 attempting to kill the ROK President. The resulting running firefight yielded 92 South Korean casualties, 4 US military casualties, and 25 North Koreans. The scars of that battle still exist high in the trees of this otherwise beautiful area.

Another view of the wall at Inwangsan. This spur, characteristic of Korean castles of the Joseon period, provided long sight lines for government archers down both slopes of the steep ridge line.

Korean castles of the period follow the terrain, much like the Great Wall does in China, making them easily distinguishable from Japanese and Ryukyu fortresses which seek to alter the ground beneath the stone, facilitating straight, geometrically-shaped structures. The wall here is beautiful and uninterrupted by development and construction aside from those additions in use by the ROK Army. Visiting in the Autumn, of course, just made it all the more incredible an experience.