M. G. Haynes

Veteran, Author, & Fan of History

Seoul City Walls (Hanseong)

The Joseon capital city of Hanseong (in the northern half of modern-day Seoul) was well-fortified. The city was surrounded by a high wall that ran some 18.6 kilometers, interspersed with gates and towers. The wall meanders its way up and over Baegaksan, Naksan, Namsan, and Inwangsan, the four interior mountains of Seoul. The wall was constructed in 1396 but was largely dismantled during the period of Japanese colonial rule. Some elements, like the massive Dongdaemun and Namdaemun (East and South Gates, respectively) have been preserved, as well as much of the wall that climbs Baegaksan and Naksan. The Namsan portion has been partially restored as well, and visitors can still see an example of Korean signal beacons at the top of that hill. When Konishi Yukinaga’s First Division reached Hanseong on June 10th, 1592, the city had been deserted, the royal court having fled north. Konishi garrisoned the wall and gates, infuriating rival Kato Kiyomasu when his second contingent arrived the following day, initially refusing them entry to the city without “permission”.

Namdaemun, the “Great Southern Gate” of Hanseong still stands as a visually stunning centerpiece in modern Seoul. A fire set by a mentally imbalanced homeless man burned much of the ancient structure in 2008, but the government painstakingly restored the structure to its original form.

This is the portal through which Kato Kiyomasa’s troops first entered Seoul in 1592 and through which the entire Japanese army retreated in 1593.

Dongdaemun was the gate through which Konishi Yukinaga’s troops entered the city on June 12th 1592.

According to Japanese records, Konishi’s troops found the great doors bolted shut from inside but were able to gain access by prying away the iron grate at a nearby “water gate” which allowed water to pass through the city wall. The water gate pictured here was discovered partially intact beneath Dongdaemun Stadium after the sports complex was torn down in 2007. The government has since reconstructed the site based on extant plans and illustrations.

Located a mere 500 meters from Dongdaemun, it is entirely possible this was the entryway through which Konishi’s men first entered Seoul.

Dongdaemun Gate looking down from the city walls running from there up and over Naksan toward Hyewamun. The Seoul City Wall Museum is located nearby and worth a brief visit as it’s both comprehensive and well done.

Seoul’s wall as seen from the inside, only the parapet and crenellations are visible.

From the outside, however, the wall presents a significant obstacle.

The roof stones atop the parapet sections were intended to prevent water from seeping into the battlements and speeding their erosion. This is a feature of nearly all Joseon Era fortifications and gives walls from the era their distinctive appearance.

The more difficult the terrain—such as here at Naksan—the more of the original stonework remains. Here you can clearly make out original masonry versus reconstructed portions.

Hyewamun, a smaller gate leading off to the northeast, opened to the main road leading to far-off Hamgyeong Province and, beyond the Tumen River, the lands of the Jurchen. This was the gate that witnessed diplomatic missions from those semi-nomadic tribes until the establishment of the Manchu and then the Qing Dynasty.

Misty morning weather makes it difficult to follow, but if you look closely you can make out the old stone walls climbing the steep Inwang Mountain north of the ancient city. These sections are largely original, and are dotted by modern guard posts used by the Republic of Korean Army to protect the President’s residence down below. A North Korean assassination team infiltrated this area in January 1968 attempting to kill the ROK President. The resulting running firefight yielded 92 South Korean casualties, 4 US military casualties, and 25 North Koreans. The scars of that battle still exist high in the trees of this otherwise beautiful area.

Another view of the wall at Inwangsan. This spur, characteristic of Korean castles of the Joseon period, provided long sight lines for government archers down both slopes of the steep ridge line.

Korean castles of the period follow the terrain, much like the Great Wall does in China, making them easily distinguishable from Japanese and Ryukyu fortresses which seek to alter the ground beneath the stone, facilitating straight, geometrically-shaped structures. The wall here is beautiful and uninterrupted by development and construction aside from those additions in use by the ROK Army. Visiting in the Autumn, of course, just made it all the more incredible an experience.

* Given the 18.6 kilometers of wall, it was impossible to revisit the entire fortress in a day. I will return to this visual topic a couple more times as I hike the majestic northern wall sections and get up to Namsan on a clear(ish) day. So . . . more-to-follow here!