Suwon City Walls (화성)
Often referred to as “Suwon Castle”, these fortifications actually constitute a walled city called Hwaseong by the Koreans. Constructed by the order of King Jeongjo from 1794 to 1796, the terrain-following walls are definitively characteristic of Korean fortifications throughout history. The crenellations and supplemental structures along these long ramparts reflect a mixture of Ming and Qing Chinese influences and represent the last major fortification constructed by the Yi Dynasty before its demise.
The walls stretch a total of 5.7 km and vary between four and six meters in height. The fortifications include command posts, four main gates, sentry posts, “secret” gates, observation towers, crossbow platforms, a pair of fortified floodgates, and several pavilions, all of which have been beautifully renovated over the past forty years.
Hwaseong was never attacked and so we'll never know how well these fortifications would have held up under assault. Instead, the elegant walls and imposing turrets provide still today some idea of the majesty surrounding the Kingdom of Joseon at its height.
You can find more information on Hwaseong here.
(click to view enlarged pictures)
This is a pretty good—and modern—sketch of old Suwon and its defensive walls. It provides a good idea of the layout.
Changyongmun Gate from inside the walls.
Changyongmun from the outside, including its “recently” redesigned approach.
Dongbukkongshimdon tower, a fairly unique—and modern—structure for a Joseon Era fortress.
A sentry post along the southern wall. Hwaseong stretches west from the Dongbukkongshimdon and the nearby command post to the water gate and, eventually, to Mount Paldal on the far side of the old city. This segment provides some of the most beautiful sections of the graceful walls as they hug the contours of the earth in a manner typical of Korean fortifications.
An artillery tower—another fairly modern invention at the time—along the southern wall.
Straight-on shot of the signal station. One link in a line of signal stations leading all the way to Busan in the south and the capital in Seoul to the north.
The signal station is a pretty large feature along the southern wall of Hwaseong.
Looking up at Mt. Paldal any time during the hike you’ll see the Western Command Post on the heights above.
On the southern wall, overlooking the southern water gate below, lies one of my favorite guard posts at Hwaseong.
This is the great Southern Gate complex, called Paldalmun. Note the outer, semi-circular walls provide Paldalmun with a double gate…no doubt doubly difficult to breach.
The rear view of Paldalmun, from inside the fortress walls. This gate is free-standing due to the growth of Suwon City making a full restoration of the fortress impossible…yet. I hope at some point in the future the 200 meter wall section to the east and 100 meters to the west can be completed.
Stairs leading up Paldal Mountain.
An older pic of the lower stairs.
Nearing the top of the climb.
This tiny gate, called Seonamamun, is the smallest gate at Hwaseong bearing a wooden superstructure. It opens onto a raised narrow corridor-like wall section that leads to the Southwestern Pavilion. The height of Mount Paldal coupled with the pavilion's location on the extreme western end of the ridge line would have provided views far into the distance, allowing for some measure of early warning for threats approaching from the west.
Heading out Seonamamun.
The Southwestern Pavilion would have provided not only a lovely setting for a party, but also critical sightlines to the south and west.
Returning to Seonamamun.
The western wall section atop Paldal Mountain leading up to a guard post. These generally had heated floors and allowed a place for sentries to warm up between shifts on cold winter days and nights.
One of four “secret gates”—this one atop Mt. Paldal.
This is my favorite of all the secret gates—seen in oblique from the outside.
From the bottom of Mt. Paldal, this gate would be all but invisible.
The Western Command Post, or Seojangdae, atop Mt. Paldal is visible from nearly any spot in the fortress.
Likewise, from the Western Command Post the entire Fortess—and its environs—is visible.
An older pic, but on a pretty clear day showing nearly half of the northern wall.
The Seonodae was an archery/crossbow platform. Another reflection of more contemporary means of defending a fortress not found elsewhere in Korea. The platform is just high enough to be able to shoot down over the nearby western wall and slope of Mount Paldal.
Timing my hike just right one day a few years ago, I crested Mt. Paldal just before sunset…and enjoyed the most incredible show all the way down! These are some of my favorite pics from Hwaseong, and I’ve never timed it right since!
Rounding the fortress to the north juxtaposes the medieval fortifications with modern Suwon City beyond.
An older pic from a warmer visit, but the entire northern wall was visible on this day, including both north-facing gates.
Coming down the hill toward Hwaseommun, the northwestern gate complex and its iconic guard tower.
A view of the single gate with half-moon protective outer wall.
Another of Hwaseong’s more contemporary towers, the Seobukgongsimdon, standing sentry over the northwestern gate.
An older pic of the impressive Seobukgongsimdon.
The masssive Janganmun, the Northern Gate into Hwaseong. It too includes a double gate to make unwanted entry more difficult for any attacker. The gate comples is flanked by a pair of uncovered turrets which would have provided wonderful platforms from which to direct fire at any enemy trying to breach the successive gates.
Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion with Hwahongmun water gate in the right foreground.
Hwahongmun was designed to allow water to flow into the city while keeping unwanted "guests" out. It's a beautiful structure, especially after a good rain.
The water it let in provided necessary supply to the entire medieval city.
A Close-up—if not the best picture—of Banghwasuryujeong pavilion.
The circular pond below the pavilion is beautiful…even in the winter!
An older pic, but showing the pavilion and pond below in warmer days.
Another of my favorite wall sections.
The Eastern Command Post, the Dongjangdae.
Of all the times I've visited Hwaseong, I've only been at night once. I'll admit to not being very skilled at night photography, but a couple of these from a previous visit came out all right so I’ll leave them here. That said, they don't even begin to do justice to the sight of Hwaseong lit up at night. Highly recommend a night visit during the warmer months, however, as it gets pretty cold out on the walls during the winter.