Apparently constructed very early in the Unified Silla Period, Yeongwonsanseon is a bit of a mystery to me. It is located high in the mountains of Chungcheong Province—there was still snow in nearby crevices—and, given its size and the forbidding terrain, must have required incredible amounts of treasure and physical effort to build. More to the point, this is the first fortress in all my years exploring that I couldn’t quite figure out its purpose. It’s WAY up there, doesn’t really seem to guard a pass or easier way over the mountain…and takes a goat with steady hoofs just to reach it! That said, in 1291 a rebel Mongol army rampaging around Goryeo assaulted but failed to take the fortress. Again during the Imjin War, 1592-98, a Japanese force managed to find its way to this high, remote fortress but—unsurprisingly given the terrain and high walls—the defense held firm. Well worth the effort to see, this one is not for the faint of heart as the climb up was brutal and, at times, downright perilous.
It took an hour of tough climbing—with sheer drop-offs sometimes to left and right—before the fortress wall came within sight. What a relief, as the wind was already starting to pick up by the time we’d made it this far!
The wall drops off into rubble at this point but is more or less intact heading uphill.
The solid outer battlements mark this fortress and hint at its age.
Signs posted at intervals warn visitors: 1) not to fall off the wall, and 2) to beware of snakes. It was chilly enough we didn’t really have to worry about 2…but the wind continued to gain in strength as we climbed, making 1 a real concern at times!
These two pics make clear that some sections—even the vertical ones—are in better shape than others.
This was the only intact gate we found. I tried to photograph the trail leading down the hill, but it’s impossible to pick out of the brush. Frankly, the path leading up to this gate is only marginally less dangerous than the one we traveled to get there and would still have required quite an effort.
Looking down upon the gate gives a slightly better view and appreciation for the steep terrain.
Some of the turns of the wall were beautiful…characteristic of Korean mountain fortresses.
Looking back I love this sharp turn in the wall and sudden, rapid ascent. Would bet money a wooden guard tower once stood watch over this point.
After that turn and climb, however, the condition of the wall deteriorates rapidly as pictured here. I understand there are some better sections still up ahead, but by this point the wind was whipping us hard and we—like previous attackers—withdrew from Yeongwonsanseong. And yes…the descent was just as harrowing if not more so!
…bonus content…
Halfway up the mountain, the trail head up to the fortress starts here at Sangwonsa Temple. Despite signs saying otherwise…you CAN drive all the way up to the temple and park in its small lot. If not, the nearest public parking is well down the mountain. Good, Army PT!!
I wouldn’t normally include such pics here, but the stream running off the mountain just below Sangwonsa Temple was just too photogenic to pass up. Enjoy!
Final Note: The discovery of an internal Mongol feud playing out in central Goryeo is exciting. For all the history I’ve read, I’d never before heard of this conflict—one of so many which took place on the Korean Peninsula. More-to-follow, I promise, as I research all I can on the event, its causes, and its ultimate effects.