M. G. Haynes

1) Suwon City Walls

2) Namhansanseong

3) Ganghwa Island & Munsusanseong

4) Gongsanseong

5) Samnyeonsanseong

6) Jaseongdae Fortress

7) Dongnae Fortress

8) Jinju City Walls

9) Haengju Sanseong & Battlefield

10) Seoul

City Walls

Gyeongbokgung

11) Doksanseong

12) Sangdangsanseong

13) Seosaengpo Waeseong*

14) Ungcheon Waeseong*

15) Suncheon Waeseong*

16) Yeosu

17) Buyeo (Sabi)

18) Sangju Battlefield

19) Mungyeong Saejae (Joryeong) Pass

20) Chungju (Tangeumdae) Battlefield

21) Chungjusanseong

22) Deokjusanseong & Deokjusa Temple

23) Jangmisanseong

24) Jukjusanseong

25) Anheungjinseong

26) Ondalsanseong

27) Danyang Jeokseong

28) Imjonseong

29) Hongjuseong

30) Haemi Eupseong

31) Myeongnyang Battle Site

32) Namdo Jinseong

33) Yongjangseong

34) Noryang Battle Site

35) Sacheon Waeseong*

36) Uiryeong Battlefield

37) Yeongwonsanseong

38) Pasaseong & Yeoju

39) Gomosanseong & Seokhyeonseong

40) Gyeongju

41) Gyejoksanseong

42) Dangseong

43) Cheoinseong

44) Saseongam Hermitage

45) Nakan Eupseong

46) Namwon

47) Amak Fortress

48 Wibongsanseong

Gongsanseong (Ungjinseong)

Perched high above the south bank of the Gum River, Gongsanseong presents a reminder of the beauty of Korean castle design. Flowing with the terrain, the walls gracefully roll up and down as the fortification straddles two distinct hills at a bend in the river. What truly makes Gongsanseong special, however, is that it was once the capital of the Korean kingdom of Baekje—called Ungjinseong at the time—and the palace grounds there continue to be studied by archaeologists and historians today.

Samnyeonsanseong

My first castle built by Silla, this was quite the surprise! An incredibly beautiful fortress deep in the mountains of Chuncheon Province with both historic and artistic appeal. This fortress was built using techniques I’d not previously encountered in Korea, and I was suitably impressed not only with the scale of the construction, but the overall visual effect it would have generated straddling a pair of heights dominating parallel valleys below. Really glad we made this trip…despite spending four hours in Chuseok traffic!

Chungjusanseong

Nestled high on Namsan Mountain overlooking the historic city of Chungju, this fortress has a lot going on in a small space. Difficult to get to, it’s completely worth the effort as this castle possesses unique design features and offers unparalleled scenic vistas. Built along the line of contact during the most contentious period in Korean history, Chungjusanseong provides yet another interpretation of castle design, Three Kingdoms style!

Deokjusanseong & Deokjusa Temple

Set in the scenic Woraksan National Park, this odd fortress appropriates much of the natural beauty of the surroundings. North and South Gates once controlled access through the narrow valley, but three more lines of solid stone walls make their way up the mountain, guarding the way to Deokjusa Temple. Different and certainly interesting, with incredible scenery everywhere you look. A gift of Korea’s Unified Silla Period, and the first such fortress we’ve visited.

Jangmisanseong

Originally thought to have been constructed during the Three Kingdoms Period by Goguryeo during its drive south. It was later occupied by Baekje and, later, Silla. At least 1400 years old, little remains of the original fortress, though one stretch of wall has thus far been beautifully reconstructed.

Jukjusanseong

Initially constructed near the end of Korea’s Three Kingdom’s Period, it was strategically located and so saw continued use—and repair—throughout the Goryeo and Joseon Periods. Jukjusanseong is unique in a couple ways. It features several concentric walls, each apparently constructed by different dynasties, Unified Silla, Goryeo, and Joseon. As well, in 1234 Jukjusanseong was the scene of a failed 15-day siege by Mongol invaders.

Anheungjinseong

The first medieval Korean navy base I’ve ever visited, Anheungjinseong had a unique purpose, explaining its proximity to the coast. This diminutive castle—currently containing an entire modern village—once provided naval support to the royal court operating during the Mongol invasions on Ganghwa Island to the north.

Yongjanseong

Headquarters for the Sambyeolcho Rebellion from 1259-70. From this fortress on Jindo Island, Goryeo’s elite military forces raided Mongol and royal garrisons and fleets for 11 years before the citadel was besieged and taken. The surviving rebels retreated to Jeju and held out for another three years before the Mongols landed on the island and ended resistance once and for all. The Sambyeolcho Rebellion came to represent the culmination of 42 years of stubborn Goryeo resistance to the all-conquering Mongols.

Namdojinseong

The second naval fortress we’ve visited in Korea and so a rare find. This one's still undergoing restoration, but the work is coming along nicely. The two stone bridges crossing the sea-fed moat are not restored and are original, still-standing, works from the end of the Joseon Period. Small by army standards, it was really only designed as a shore base for naval crews. It’s a nice destination now, and will only get better as restoration work continues.

Pasaseong

This small fortress overlooking the scenic Han River is a site of historic inspiration as poets used to come from all across the country to take in the wide vistas visible from the summit. The wall alternates between intact, rubbled, and beautifully restored sections, with work ongoing. Another gorgeous Three Kingdoms Era fortress and well worth the visit.

Buyeo (Formerly Sabi)

Sabi was the third and final capital of the Kingdom of Baekjae, and the government was centered here from 538 until the end of that kingdom in 660 A.D. The city of Buyeo still today hosts the remnants of that once great metropolis and the ruins of fortifications, palaces, gardens, and temples are liberally scattered throughout. Especially interesting is the Baekje Cultural Center which serves as a museum dedicated to that lost kingdom and hosts an impressive display of reconstructed facilities.

Dangseong

Originally constructed by Baekje in the 3rd-4th Centuries, Hwaseong Dangseong has the distinction of having been owned and manned by all of Korea’s Three Kingdoms. Protecting the harbor below—and its crucial trade with medieval Chinese dynasties—Dangseong would remain operational through the Joseon Period. Given its long use, its unsurprising that one can observe different methods of fortress construction on this one, unique site.

Choeinseong

In 1232 the 2nd Mongol invasion of Korea came to a dramatic end outside the walls of an unassuming, rammed-earth fortification near the town of Cheoin. There, in what must have come as a shock to all involved, the Monk Kim Yun-hu loosed an arrow that struck down the Mongol commander Saritai, who died shortly thereafter. With their appointed leader gone, the invaders turned their mounts and headed back north, allowing the Kingdom of Goryeo a three year respite before another Mongol force returned.

Saseongam Hermitage

Not a fortress or battlefield—don’t look so shocked, I’m interested in all kinds of history—the Buddhist hermitage at Saseongam, located between Suncheon and Namwon, is believed to have been established in 544 A.D., within what was then the Kingdom of Baekje. An incredible site to visit, the architecture is unique, as is the general layout, it’s principle buildings clinging to the steep cliffs of Mt. Osan. Certainly worth visiting, if only to experience the terrifying bus ride up the mountain or even to take in the scenic vistas.

Wibongsanseong

A “young” fortress by Korean standards, it nonetheless bears some striking and unique features. Completed in 1682, during the mid-Joseon period, Wibongsanseong had another purpose besides just defense of the local area and its people. And, as with so many mountain fortifications in this country, the surrounding scenery is absolutely stunning!